A long stage with (positive and negative) climbs that should not be underestimated. The fatigue (altogether it is a lot) is amply compensated by the breathtaking view of the sea that accompanies us from the beginning to the end of the stage.
If you have time to relax, there is the option of taking a dip in the crystal clear waters!
A stage to avoid in the height of summer.
The heat combined with the lack of water sources in the first part, the difference in altitude and the length make the route demanding.
No signposts: it is good to monitor the GPS track. The path is marked by cairns (easily visible as they are made of medium-sized stones) or by stones stuck in the branches of trees.
The path on the ground is clearly visible until you climb the ridge. From here on you have to be careful because the paths are different and it is easy to get lost.
It is very important that you cover your head to protect yourself from the sun: there are very few shady sections. Take trekking poles with you, because the descent in particular puts a lot of strain on your knees.
We cross the village of Dorgali and walk the first kilometre on asphalt. As soon as we leave the village, a long climb begins (about 400 m height difference), initially on a paved road. After a first climb, we cross the Etza tunnel (although it is only a little over 500 m long, it is very scenic!). After leaving the tunnel, we walk for a bit on a dirt road and then take the actual path, which stays on the ridge for many kilometres and leads us to Monte Bardia, which at 880 m above sea level offers a beautiful view of the sea and the entire valley around Dorgali.
We gradually lose altitude (about 600 m drop) and continue walking along the ridge line; the path alternates between sun-exposed sections and pleasant shady passages. After reaching Monte Rosso, the path descends until it meets a carriage road, which we cross and then continue along the path, with another hard climb (about 300 m height difference); however, thanks to the view of the sea, it is easy to get distracted. For a few kilometres the path goes over scree and rocks; we pass some pinnettos (the famous shepherd's huts) where we can take shelter and cool off a bit.
We start the long descent (about 600 m drop), which should not be underestimated, because it is steep and difficult due to the uneven terrain. Finally we reach the sea and walk down to the beautiful (sandy) beach of Osalla. We walk over the sand and then over the rocks (where we have to be very careful: the rocks are sharp and, because they are covered with seaweed, wet and extremely slippery) until we reach the beach of Orosei... a few kilometres long. The path runs parallel to the beach under a fragrant pine forest along the shore of Stagno Petrosu.
Finally, we cross the pond on a small bridge and walk along a causeway from which we admire the imposing Monte Tuttavista until we reach the centre of Orosei (where we have to watch out for traffic!).
In Orosei flows the river Cedrino, which the Sardinian writer Grazia Deledda tells about in her novels - especially in Canne al Vento.
The Cedrino was already known at the time of the ancient Romans, who called it the Kaidros. It rises in the Gennargentu massif and flows 80 km into the Tyrrhenian Sea. It owes its name to the numerous citrus plantations that were cultivated in the area through which it flows - especially cedar.
In the municipality of Orosei is the Santuario di Nostra Signora del Rimedio, a place of devotion characterised by the large portico that houses numerous rooms (87 cumbessias) where pilgrims go for the novena. The novena indicates the days when the faithful go to the shrine to pray to the Virgin Mary. Normally it lasts nine days, but the novena in Orosei, which takes place on the second Sunday in September (Festa del Rimedio), lasts exactly twice as long: on this occasion the inner courtyard of the sanctuary is filled with life and the prayers alternate with music and food.
The church was built in the 16th century and later rebuilt in the 19th century. It was rebuilt in the 19th century. With its vaguely Mexican atmosphere, it is the meeting place for the entire community of Orosei and the many who live far from their home town.
On the banks of the river Cedrino, a rare citrus fruit is still grown today: the Pompia, a fruit that had almost disappeared and was only rediscovered in the 1990s.
The Pompia is a large citrus fruit, a cross between a lemon and a citron, native to the region, particularly in the municipality of Siniscola. The juice of the fruit, which is too acidic to eat, used to be used to clean dishes. The peel is used instead to make candied fruit, jams, essential oils or liqueurs - excellent digestifs.
The Pompia is now protected by the Slow Food Praesidium.
Santuario di Nostra Signora del Rimedio, in Orosei (it is a self-governing religious building, kitchen use possible; telephone registration with the administrative committee is required). Tel. +39078498760
In Orosei, there are numerous accommodation options.
The starting point is accessible by car.
The starting point can be reached by bus, starting from the city of Nuoro.
Here is the LINK to check the timetable.
The starting point is NOT accessible by train.
Va' Sentiero is a grassroot project, thanks to the spontaneous contribution oft housands of people.
Even the most complicated dream, a 7,000km uphill dream,
can be achieved... together.
Grazie!
