A very long and intense stage, with a not inconsiderable difference in altitude and some orientation difficulties.
The highlight of the day is the crossing of the Sette Fratelli, real stone sculptures.
The track on the ground is not always there and you need to sharpen your eyes to spot the markings; it is good to keep an eye on the GPS track.
The only water point is at the start; take a good supply with you.
We leave the former prison of Castiadas and take the dirt road that runs along its east and north sides. After 1 km, the road becomes a path, we enter the forest and cross a nice picnic area (where we find the only fountain of the entire stage); then we start the first climb of the day (about 450 m height difference), on a fairly clear path through dense forest. After a short up and down, we reach a mule track and follow it along the ridge, enjoying some panoramic views of the peaks of the Sette Fratelli. After coming across a small path again, which is not always easy to see, we descend (about 200 m height difference) until we come to a small stream, which we follow to the right.
After a few hundred metres, we ford the stream and climb again (about 400 m height difference) through dense woodland; we come to a gravel road, which we take briefly to the left, then we return to the small path and tackle a fairly steep section, moving by feel; the vegetation thins out a little and we reach the foot of the Sette Fratelli. With a final climb we enter the rocky peaks, a real delight for the eyes, where everyone can guess a thousand shapes, as with the clouds. The path crosses the entire massif, passing between the smooth rocks and many viewpoints; finally, after passing the last of them, we begin the descent (about 550 m drop) on a steep path, always clear, which then joins a dirt road (near the ruins of an ancient monastery).
At the bottom of the valley, we cross a small stream and, after a slight up and down, we reach the road near the Sardinian Deer Museum. We take the path and climb again (about 200 m height difference): after an initial ramp, the gradient decreases and we touch the asphalt road in several places. Near a hairpin bend, the path widens, we descend a little (about 100 m drop) and then climb slightly again until we reach the centre of Burcei.
A typical instrument of Sardinia, especially Sarrabus, is the Launeddas.
It is a very ancient wind instrument consisting of three river reeds of different sizes with which a polyphony can be produced. Each of the three reeds has a different function: the longest reed, which can produce a single note (the tonic to which the instrument is tuned), is the bass, which forms the drone; the second reed is connected to the bass and has the function of accompaniment; the third reed, the smallest, is separate from the others and produces the notes of the melody. The reeds, which are always made of river reeds harvested in the days after the full winter moon, are made to vibrate using the technique of circular breathing.
This instrument, used throughout the Mediterranean, is said to go back to Pan, the shepherd god of the Greek world; a Nuragic bronze statuette depicting a Launeddas player was found in Ittiri.
One of the most famous players is Luigi Lai, who in 2018 created the first Launeddas course at the Giovanni Pierluigi da Palestrina State Conservatory in Cagliari. Thanks to collaborations with artists such as Angelo Branduardi, Paolo Fresu, Enrico Rava or Enzo Avitabile, audiences outside Sardinia can also get to know this instrument by participating in many popular festivals.
A tradition in the south of Sardinia is the campidanese Cantada, a genre of improvised poetry expressed in the metrical-musical forms of the versu, a simpler version usually accompanied by the campidanese guitar (a classical guitar with metal strings tuned to the fourth and fifth notes), and the muttettu longu, characterised by a more complex structure.
The versu, also called su mutetu a duus peis, is often practised among friends, perhaps around a set table. The muttetto longu, on the other hand, is practised by professional cantadoris who perform at formal occasions, such as religious festivals. Both forms are reminiscent of modern rap challenges: the cantadoris show off their skills by improvising on a theme presented in allegorical form by the fundatori, who is the first to sing - and the only one who knows the theme.
The art of the cantadoris is to understand and respond to the hidden theme by maintaining the tension between the allegorical form and the hidden theme, often presenting an opposing thesis. As the cantada progresses, the theme unravels and the puzzle is solved at the end of the competition. This shows the complexity of the mechanisms and the presence of a code that is difficult to interpret for those who do not know this art - for those who do not know Sardinian, a translator is essential.
The cantada campidanese has produced numerous poets who have had great success; in Burcei, the most famous is certainly Raffaele Urru. The origin of this art is almost unknown: Sources have been found that go back to the 17th century and mention some mutetus - a sign of an already consolidated presence.
The Sarrabus region is located in the south-east of Sardinia, a sparsely populated area characterised by the abundance of rivers, including the Flumendosa - the second largest river in the region.
The river courses have created the flat areas along the coast, including the fertile alluvial plain of Sa Forada. This is a very old Paleozoic geological area with numerous mines, especially silver mines, which have shaped the economy of the region.
The name Sarrabus is derived from Saeprus, the name by which the Flumendosa was called by the Romans.
In the Burcei area, as in all of Sardinia, you can admire SuPinnettu, a building used as a shelter for shepherds, with a round base made of dry stones and a conical roof made of tree branches.
In the municipality of Quartucciu is the Tomba dei Giganti di Is Concias.
It is a funerary monument of Nuragic origin, which in the course of time was considered to be the tomb of giant beings - hence the name. The tomb of Is Concias is located in the village of San Pietro Paradiso on Monte Cresia, within the Sette Fratelli Park, and is characterised by its semi-circular shape, which some describe as the horns of a bull, forming a wide entrance to the rectangular body in which there is a chamber about eight metres long. The tomb is made of huge granite blocks. It is believed that fertility rituals were held near the structure.
Archaeological excavations began in the 1960s under the direction of Enrico Atzeni, and in 1987 the tomb underwent conservative restoration.
Near the town of Burcei is the nuraghe sa domu e d'orcu (the ogre’s house) - a name found at many Nuragic sites, perhaps due to Christianity's desire to brand pre-Christian cults as fearsome.
A typical product of the municipality of Burcei is the cherry, one of the best in Sardinia, characterized by its excellent taste and good size.
During the celebrations of Santa Barbara (first Saturday in June) the Cherry Festival takes place in the village, where in addition to the fruit you can taste jams, herbal teas, grappas or ice cream. The cherry is also used for some savory preparations, one above all the rabbit "alla cacciatora".
There are no accommodation facilities in Burcei. We therefore recommend asking for a tent or enquiring locally about room rentals and B&Bs.
The starting point is accessible by car.
The starting point can be reached by bus, starting from the city of Cagliari.
Here is the LINK to check the timetable.
The starting point is NOT accessible by train.
Va' Sentiero is a grassroot project, thanks to the spontaneous contribution oft housands of people.
Even the most complicated dream, a 7,000km uphill dream,
can be achieved... together.
Grazie!
