Quite a long stage with some major climbs, but overall smooth. We arrive in Bosco Selene, where there is an interesting nuraghe complex embellished by the Tombe dei Giganti.
This stage is a variant of the Sentiero Italia (which runs from Gairo Taquisara towards the Montarbu forest barracks), preferring to visit Lanuesei and the Selene forest with its Nuragic complex.
A stage you should avoid during the central summer months.
Along the route you will come across some gates that must be opened (and always closed).
After leaving the Hotel Scala San Giorgio, we change to a dirt road after an initial asphalt section and continue for a long time on this path through the forest, at times enjoying beautiful panoramic views of the surrounding cliffs. After a short climb up a wide gorge, we reach the nuraghe of Serbissi and enjoy the view of the valley of Gairo, crowned by a beautiful limestone rampart, and the karst plateau above, reminiscent of lunar landscapes. From the nuraghe, we walk downhill on a path (about 150 m drop) to the hamlet of Gairo Taquisara, from where we follow the state road to the right, on a slight slope.
We take the small path to the left and, after an initial steep stretch, we descend (about 150 m drop) to reach a dirt road, on which we go up and down until we reach another descent (about 100 m drop) to the ford of the Pardu stream. From the ford, still on a dirt road, we climb (about 150 m height difference) and then walk halfway up the slope, almost always in the middle of the woods, to the summit of Monte Sa Ceresia (1. 093 m, a beautiful viewpoint); we cross the provincial road and take an asphalted road that shortly leads us to Bosco Selene; from there we follow a dirt road to the left, come to the state road, follow it briefly to the right and take the first dirt road to the left and reach the Ostello Cortemalis.
One Ogliastra legend is that of sa babbaieca - a name that literally means “exit of the old man” (babbai means father-grandfather-old man).
In the municipality of Gairo, there is a path that ends at a cliff from which, in ancient times, old people were pushed by their children because they were considered a burden to the family. What put an end to this macabre ritual was the intervention of a wise old man who convinced a son to spare his father. When the young man returned to the village, he had to hide his parent from the other Gairesi until, in a year of great drought, his father's wisdom succeeded in saving the community from famine: From then on, the village elders were an untouchable heritage.
On the plateau of Tacco di Osini we come across a magnificent nuraghe complex from the 17th century BC: the nuraghe of Serbissi.
It is a nuraghe with a trilobate plan, rising above a cave that is thought to have served as a pantry. It is located at an altitude of 1,000 metres at a point overlooking the valleys below and is a rare example of a high nuraghe.
In the Seleni Forest is the Complesso archeologico Parco Seleni. Amidst the woods of holm oaks, oaks, chestnuts and poplars is one of the most interesting archaeological remains of the Nuragic civilisation, including two tombs of giants and a huge Nuragic complex.
In the area there are also three sacred wells and a huge settlement area (about two hundred huts) that has not yet been the subject of a proper excavation project. This important settlement was probably located in an area where metal smelting was carried out.
The two tombs of the giants Seleni I and Seleni II are wonderful examples of a bull-headed nuragic tomb complex. Numerous artefacts have been found near the exedra (the semicircle marking the tombs), testifying to the performance of numerous rituals. The nuraghe of Gennacili rises on a huge rock and is characterised by the presence of huts all around.
Typical products of Lanusei are chestnuts and cherries, which are celebrated with the Fiera delle castagne e del Vino Nuovo (Chestnut and New Wine Festival) and the Fiera delle Ciliegie (Cherry Festival) in November and June respectively.
Very common in Ogliastra are the Barracocca cherries, often preserved in the traditional brandy filu 'e ferru.
Hotel Bosco Selene, in Seleni di Lanusei. Tel. +39329 172 3767
Ostello Cortemalis, in Cortemalis di Ilbono. Tel. +390782 482088
The starting point is accessible by car.
The starting point can be reached by bus, starting from the city of Nuoro.
Here is the LINK to check the timetable.
The starting point is NOT accessible by train.
Va' Sentiero is a grassroot project, thanks to the spontaneous contribution oft housands of people.
Even the most complicated dream, a 7,000km uphill dream,
can be achieved... together.
Grazie!
