A medium-length stage with a good difference in height: the initial climb is followed by a long stretch of ups and downs and finally a long descent.
The landscapes are beautiful and, in Piagge d'Orvano, we enjoy an unrivaled view of the magnificent Monti Sibillini, before descending to the beautiful town of Visso, unfortunately, devastated by the 2016 earthquake. We are halfway through the Sentiero Italia!
Before arriving at Pian della Cuna, we skirt a long stretch of old barbed wire: be careful.
The signposting is still inadequate and (especially in the stretch along the hillside towards Piagge d'Orvano and in the subsequent descent) the vegetation often hides the track, not often beaten: it is easy to get lost. Better keep an eye on the GPS.
We take the asphalted road towards the south, entering the Valley of the Madonna, in a light, constant climb. Where the road ends, we take the path to the left, towards the locality of Cerreto, and then arrive on an old cart track. We take it to the right until we reach the wide pass between Cima Corno and Monte Cetrognola.
From the pass, instead of continuing on the road, we take the little visible track on the left, shortly after passing a barbed-wire fence. We continue halfway up, in gentle ups and downs, then we skirt (with caution) a stretch of barbed wire. We arrive at Pian della Cuna, where we find a large fountain. We continue eastward, climbing slightly, while the landscape opens up more and more.
Under Colle Rotondo we find a crossroads, where we keep left and begin a long cross path on the south-west side of the great Monte Fema. The path becomes more and more challenging: there is no signage and the tracks on the ground are several and uneven (if we realize we are going down, we took the wrong track). Finally, slightly uphill, we reach the Piagge d' Orvano (1,319 m), from where an incredible view opens up, embracing the whole group of the Monti Sibillini. At the bottom, we see Monte Carrier (2,476 m), the highest of the group.
Our eyes are filled with beauty and we start the long descent (700 m drop), always on the hillside. It is not very easy in the first part, because of the rough terrain, some steep sections, and the many plants that often hide the track. We soon return to the woods, but at times, below us, there are panoramic views of the steep valley of the Nera river.
Once at an altitude of 1,000 m, we enter a cart track and continue in an easier way. Finally, we arrive on the asphalted road, among the houses semi-destroyed by the terrible earthquake of 2016, and we reach the small village.
We are in the middle of the Sentiero Italia: we deserve a drink.
Visso is another of the Apennine towns steeped in history: one of the most beautiful villages in Italy, Orange Flag of the Italian Touring Club.
Unfortunately, in 2016 it was hit by several earthquakes, from August to October, and today 90% of the buildings are condemned. Numerous collapses have occurred in the historic center.
Urbanized areas have been set up for Emergency Housing Solutions (the “little houses”, for the inhabitants) and temporary spaces for businesses that remain active while waiting for further developments.
In the historic center, now closed for obvious security reasons, there are numerous buildings of historical and artistic interest. Palazzo Leopardi was the summer residence of distant relatives of the poet, who for this reason spent periods in Visso. An important municipal collection of his manuscripts, including that of “L'Infinito”, was kept in the Museum of Manuscripts which is located in the Palazzo dei Governatori. Following the earthquake, the collection was brought to Bologna.
The headquarters of the Sibillini Mountains Park has been located in Visso since 1993.
This incredible park is characterized by a widespread presence of settlements of medieval origin and natural environments of pure wilderness: in addition to edelweiss and the genepì of the Apennines, in the woods of the park live wolves, wild cats, deer, chamois, golden eagles, peregrine falcons...
The uniqueness of the landscape has ignited man's imagination over the centuries, as demonstrated by the evocative names that distinguish these mountains: Pizzo del Diavolo, Gole dell'Infernaccio, Monte Sibilla ...
Something excellent in the cuisine of the Sibillini Mountains is the cold meats.
Among these stands out the ciauscolo, the most famous cured meat of the province, which was invented in Visso. It is a mixture of minced pork (shoulder, bacon, along with the trimmings of ham and loin) to which wine, garlic, and a mix of aromas and spices are added.
In addition to its unique flavor, it is famous for being a salami spread (delicious on toasted bread).
Equally famous is the mistrà, a typical anise-based dry liqueur from the Marche region (excellent as a digestive) produced by a company symbol of the territory, the Varnelli Distillery.
B&B Il Ruscello, in Visso. Tel. +39 349 406 6364
Affittacamere Due Torri, in Visso. Tel. +39 0737 95403 - +39 339 160 1018
Hotel Elena, in Visso. Tel. +39 0737 9277
Starting point reachable by car.
Starting point reachable by bus, leaving from the town of Civitanova Marche with a change in Macerata, then in Castelraimondo, and finally in Camerino.
Here the LINK to check the timetables.
Starting point NOT reachable by train.
Va' Sentiero is a grassroot project, thanks to the spontaneous contribution oft housands of people.
Even the most complicated dream, a 7,000km uphill dream,
can be achieved... together.
Grazie!
